Cataviña

We are camped in the desert tonight.  It is a teeny town; teeny even by Baja standards.  The stars are bright white and twinkling and it seems that the sky is absolutely filled to capacity with them.  The trailer is buffeted by the gusty winds, but we are warm and secure and I have Ellen’s warm, sleepy arm on my waist.  I don’t want to move, her tiny little arm radiates so much heat and love.

We left Vicente Guerrero around 10 and soon afterward found a brand new Baja.  The trip from Ensenada to San Quintin or from Mexicali to San Felipe, while somewhat remote, is always full of reminders of the human machine.  It is also on roads that, while more narrow than our in the States, are not frighteningly so narrow.  Today we found the real narrow roads.  I pulled in my driver’s side mirror and twice, was terribly glad I did, as the passing space was tighter than I could have believed.  There is rarely a shoulder, but today’s roads were not only without shoulder, but to quicken the heart, with decent dropoffs at the edge of the pavement.

Once leaving Lazaro (right after San Quintin) we followed electric poles for a while and then they quit.  We began to leave the thick green and found some of the barren desert - though it is still much greener than ever before.  We headed towards the ocean and followed the coastline of the Pacific Ocean for a while, watching the waves break in giant (so they seemed after the calm waves of the Sea of Cortes) then turned inland and snaked through countless kilometers of windy road, mountain peak, range top and valley.  We climbed a gigantic grade and found ourselves on what seemed like the top of the world.  Guess what we found there; a flat (yet green) mesa of desert?  A military checkpoint.  :)  They waved us through and we made for El Rosario.  The attendant topped us off so high we had a nice puddle on the ground and I stopped him.  Since there are no facilities for 219 miles or so, I think they really try to top tanks off.  As soon as we pulled into the station, a senora and her daughters? sold the kids some bracelets.

We wanted to lunch in El Rosario but couldn’t find an open taqueria.  Strangely, everything was closed and I expected the famous restaurant (of lobster and crab burrito fame) to be obvious, but it wasn’t.  We finally took lunch at El Descanso; somewhere between El Rosario and San Austin.  We tried "machaca" (dried, shredded beef) and carne asada.  The restaurant was simply a restuarant and domicile; no town, no gas station, nothing.

Outside of El Rosario (but quite a bit outside) we saw two cyclists heading south.  They were in need of nothing, so we gave them the lane and passed.

San Quintin

Kind of a boring day; I don’t even feel like taking the time to document it.  If nothing else, I have lots of pictures (especially of the kids, for Papa and Tata) so here goes.

Left Sordo Mudo about 10am and headed down MX1 for the first time.  Ensenada was pretty tranquil - good thing we passed through on a Sunday.  It is a HUGE town of about 400,000 people.  Rolling through mountains, then hills, then flats, my eyes actually began to hurt from the emerald coloring everything.  It is amazingly green and I know this is not the typical Baja landscape.  They’ve had unusual rains and the desert is in absolute bloom.  We stopped in Colonet for lunch and Sissy and I tried tacos tripitas.  Yup.  Tripe.  Tasted a lot like liver and now that I’ve finally tried them, I know I don’t like them.  HEY DAD!  I found out what "abarrotes" means.  It is a store that sells food.  Asked the taco vendor.  We picked the campground we’re in because it is supposed to have laundry facilities.  They do, but all washers are broken.  :)  Should have gone to the expensive place in San Quintín (Old Mill).  Tomorrow we’re hoping to hit Cataviña, but will stop in San Quintín for Internet access, ATM, gas and groceries.

On the road today, we were humming along, straight road (for a change), green fields, and the windshield was suddenly full of what sounded like large hailstones.  It stopped as suddenly as it started and either we hit a large swarm of bees or butterflies.  It was shocking - loud and sudden.
The kids are in their element; but really it takes nothing to put them in their element. Some dirt, some water, some rocks - the boys made underground homes for Pooh and Piglet.  Along the way, Piglet acquired a wife.  They have paved pathways (Piglet has one large flagstone pathway, Pooh has several small stones making up his pathway).  Inside their domiciles are tables (rock), chairs (rock) and a bed (did you guess?).  They are quite the gardeners, these animals; daisies, trees and grass adorn the outsides of their homes.  Before breakfast, both boys hurried outside to work on the homes once more.  Before making their homes, Jesse fashioned a "car" for Piglet and dragged him around behind him on his bike.

(warning: math brag)  The last two mornings, the kids have enjoyed "Holiday" Chai from Oregon Springs?  something like that.  I found a box in the back of the van while putting stuff away and the kids are LOVING it.  This morning, Jesse was reminiscing about the Chai we bought for Aunty Chris (a case) for Christmas and wondered how much we spent.  I told him the price per box (not a round number) and the total I spent on the case.  He then proceeded to figure out how many boxes we bought.  Just because.  It is sure nice to know that they can do this stuff without ever being "taught".  That they will, on ocassion, decide to figure something out just because they want to know and not because it is a "word problem" on a math test.  As an unschooler, I’m constantly worried that we’re not doing enough; that they aren’t learning and that they are having a "less than" childhood.  These little experiences help to satisify my need to know that they are learning and growing.

Rancho Sordo Mudo

We left Potrero at 11am and are in Rancho Sordo Mudo at 1:30.  Best day for traveling so far; the kids played before we left; are playing now; and we got where we wanted to go.  Border crossing was super easy except I wanted to get a vehicle permit (for when we cross over to the mainland).  We decided to get it in Tecate to allow us the flexibility to take the ferry without having to go to La Paz (furthest north to get permit after the border).  I asked the Aduana where to get one, he sent me to the bank; bank sent me to immigration and immigration sent me back to the bank.  Bank misunderstood; thought I wanted a tourist card.  Had to run back to the van (double parked along side the strip dividing the road (should have gotten a picture, but I was REALLY focused on getting the permit and out) for more paperwork and Jamie was frantic; a police officer had either told him it was ok to park there or he could park there only for a little bit - and just this once.  He was NOT about to move the van/trailer in the city.  I wasn’t too worried because we were one of 3 other rigs parked there and I figured we’d be ok.  He wasn’t convinced. 

On the way out of Tecate, on MX3, a number of oncoming cars flashed their lights at us.  This had happened yesterday, in the US, and we were starting to wonder if something was wrong with the van.  I remembered reading that in Mexico this signifies that there is something to be cautious of ahead but since it had happened the day before, in the US, I pulled over (and nearly broke an axle in the process; pullouts in Mexico are usually river washes) and Jamie checked the front of the van.  All good.  Back on the road and a bit along we came to a semi, parked in our lane, on the highway, on a hill.  Federales were diverting traffic over a very opportune (because they simply don’t exist) pullout.  Then we got to play the "flash your lights" game with our oncoming traffic.  Whee!

We’re now at Sordo Mudo (Deaf Mute School which also runs a campground), the sun is warm and bright, I’ve purified 5 gallons of water (1/2 tsp of bleach) and kids are busy playing. 

After dinner, the boys enjoyed a warm shower and apparently, some painting fun.  The bathroom had been recently painted but there were no signs or warnings.  They stepped in a puddle of paint and managed to make footprints on the floor and hand prints on the walls.  They had a blast.  When they came back to the trailer, they were quite confused as to how paint had gotten on their clothes.  They didn’t even NOTICE that there was wet paint in the bathroom.  I asked them to be more careful in the bathroom and thought nothing of it.  Later, Pike came back to the trailer after trying to use the bathroom and said that the caretaker had told him he couldn’t use the bathroom - either the boys or girls.  Sounded fishy to me, so I accompanied him and found the reason.  Luckily, both boys owned up (course, Jesse had "forgotten" his involvement until Pike fessed up) and braved a fierce dog to apologize to the caretaker.  He turned down their offer of working tomorrow, but they decided to ask him again tomorrow (he speaks no English) when they see him working about.  I told them I was proud of them for owning up and speaking to the man (while I translated). 

I picked up about $200 worth of books, workbooks, Klutz books, "educational materials" and travel books at Barnes & Noble and Borders while we were in San Diego.  I’m currently reading, "Traveler’s Guide to Mexican Camping" by Mike and Teri Church (THE camping Bible), The Lonely Planet’s "Baja California" and The Lonely Planet’s "Mexico".  For fun, I’m reading, "Talk Stories" by Jamaica Kincaid.  It is a collection of Jamaica Kincaid’s original writing for The New Yorker’s "Talk of the Town" from 1978 to 1983.  They are absolutely fascinating. 

Tomorrow we head for San Quintín.  If we leave early enough and don’t dally in Ensenada, we might push on to El Rosario.  The warmth is drawing us south.  A Canadian couple pulled in to camp; they were attired in shorts and "warm weather" gear.  They’d come up from Cabo, and said it was 26 degrees (Celcius) there.  They came up from Cataviña today.  I gave them a few letters to mail; Sissy has lost "Sally", her baby, and I think she left it either at the Trek store, Barnes and Noble or Souplantation (dinner).  I wrote the stores and asked them to email us if they found it.  It seems that the surest way to send mail is to ask someone going north to mail it from the states.  Otherwise, Mexican post seems to get "lost" a LOT!

Pictures today and yesterday are at Sordo Mudo.  Only spent $24 today!!!  AFter almost getting back on track with 3 weeks in San Felipe, we’re back to overbudget.  The stuff we bought will last us a number of months (good coffee, organic PB, organic cheese and butter, pasta (haven’t seen it anywhere in Mexico), RV stuff, diesel oil, etc.) so that helps my peace of mind. 

Too rainy for our blood

The sun the sun the sun the SUN!!! It FOUND us!!!!  We’re back to turtlenecks and jeans (instead of shorts and short-sleeved shirts) but windows and doors are open.  Kids are bike riding and I’m (what else??) cleaning up.  Jamie will head off for a bike ride and I’ll take the kids to the library and then we’ll head into El Cajon for the LAST of our errands (Trek store and thriftstore).

The thriftstore is closed; I can’t update this site from the library and the propane here is insanely overpriced.  So, we’re sitting at a Union 76 waiting for everyone to pee, and I’M POSTING ON THE INTERNET for FREE!!!  Super fast uploads and free access (WiFi)!  This technology is amazing!  Much faster than Dad’s satelite - I’m so impressed!

We head back to Mexico tomorrow; it is beautiful in the valley we’re camped in, but it is SO cold, overcast and rainy.  Raining right now.  I shouldn’t complain, especially since everyone else is battling snow, but I’m used to the warmth of Mexico now.

Packages should be arriving for Aunty Chris, Drew and Sara, The Link and Bonny.  Think that’s it, but I’m not sure.  Hope to see Shanti, Jo and Phil, Sarah (Alexander) and Adria (and Leo?) here (website) soon.  Love to all!

Ok, now I’m posting from the parking lot of Trek (bike store).  Free and fast.  Still can’t send email though…

Grumpy in cold San Diego

I’m already tired of the cold and can’t wait to get to points south.  Jamie is in his element; surrounded by beautiful, alternately lush and pocketed with bolders, mountains, but it is COLD here!  In San Felipe we’d get some froggy mornings, but within an hour or so, it would have broken up and we’d be in shorts.  It is misty and rainy here and we used the heat last night.  We are terribly spoilt.  I’ll say this for the US; I LOVE the shoulders on the roads and the reflective bumps down the middle of the roads (dividing the lanes) and the white lines on the edges of the roads and the wide lanes, but mostly I really REALLY love the road shoulders!

We let the kids play for quite a while today at the campground and didn’t get out until 1:45pm.  They sure had a blast - it is so difficult to tear them away from play so we can get errands done.  I’m sure I could do it all in one day, but to keep the kids sane (and us, by default), we will take 3 days.  We headed into town to get Mike and Teri Church’s book and figured out why letting your fingers do the talking is always adviseable.  We hit one Barnes & Noble in La Mesa; they didn’t have the book but said that the San Diego one did.  They held it in San Diego and about an hour after getting there (when you take 4 kids into a bookstore, you can’t simply walk out that quickly) headed to the next Barnes & Noble.  Unfortunately there was a communication error and the 2nd B&N had reserved just the Baja book by the Church’s instead of all of Mexico and Baja.  I talked this (horrid, awful, terrible customer service) B&N into calling Borders and we headed out (after spending over $100 (with educators discount of 25%)) to Borders.  Just about on the freeway (which was standstill traffic with CHP’s and a firetruck driving up the shouder - a really bad sign when you’re getting on that freeway) and Sissy figured out she’d left her horse at B&N.  Back to B&N, got the damn horse and to avoid the freeway mess, decided on hotdogs at Costco.  Kids thought they’d died and gone to heaven. 

Crap!  YEAH!!!!  FINALLY, some 6 hours after starting out to get the Church’s book, we had it in our hot little hands.  We know the book is worth it; we used my folks copy when in San Felipe.  We also hit AAA and got books and maps, returned pants to Costco (used the money to get dinner) and got RV stuff.  So, other than not being able to enjoy the gorgeous area we’re in, it was a something day…

It is supposed to be sunny after tomorrow; Jamie is hoping to go for a ride tomorrow and I should be able to wrap up the last of the errands.  One of them is to get to the coffee house with free internet by TJ’s and post all this crap.  :)  Aunty Chris must be in crap withdrawal. 

border crossing

The night brought rain and morning was misty.  Off we headed to Tecate and wouldn’t you know it, our border luck held and I once again, backed out of a lane.  We were following the signs through Tecate for San Diego and 94, but ended up at a truck cargo lane for the border (truck as in semi-truck) and had to back up out of the lane (and ask the truck coming up behind us to stop and back a little), head back down into town and blunder into the line snaking about.  There was absolutely NO notice, but we spoke to people in line, found out that we should go around a block to the end of the line (not with our trailer; we’d never make it), so I just waited til the line had advanced to our position and merged into it.  US Customs took a couple oranges and we were soon at the campground.  We’re nestled in the hills east of San Diego (by 43 miles!!).  We picked this campground because the book said it was 25 miles east of San Diego.  We thought it would be pretty (it IS!) but it is really far; especially when you’re going 35 and 40 on the windy areas.

I never knew San Diego was so mountainous and green.  I’d envisioned a flat area from San  Diego to El Centro, and even expected that Tecate would be a flat crossing.  it has been one lush, boulder strewn green mountains after another.  I can’t wait to get AAA maps so we know  what we’re traveling through.  Jamie wants to stay 4 days, salivating at the thought of the incredible bike rides that await him.  We hit Trader Joes, Costco and Target today and are happy with our progress through our errands.  Tomorrow to the post office and library (to get online).

leaving san felipe

Jesse said "go forward" but I counted the turns and it was 5 turns going forward and 3 turns going back and I was sure backing out of the camp would be easier than going forward, but by the time we were ready to go there were about 20 people milling about watching the fun and I think bets were being taken.  The crowd seemed evenly split as to whether or not we’d get it out.  We were a little rusty not having hitched up for 3 weeks but with Papa and Tata "helping" and taking picture after picture (no pressure there!) we managed to get van connected to trailer.  Under Jesse’s expert guidance, I moved the trailer forward (with inches to spare between the roof of the palapa and trailer) and pivoted that puppy around the first curve.  Jesse and Dad walked out the length and figured I had a foot to spare.  Oh goody.  Maybe they could simply engineer the trailer out of the space.  :)  With turn #1 under my belt, #2 was easy and we were on our way.  Looking at the trailer in our spot, I never would have imagined how easy it was to get it out.  Course, without Jesse’s guidance, I’d probably STILL be there. 

It was bittersweet to leave camp; we’d made so many friends and it was so easy living there.  As we headed down the road we decided to try just ONE last taco stand.  I’d seen a stand at the Pemex station (that sells diesel) on the roundabout (directions for Tata and Papa) occasionally.  Sometimes it was there (always at lunch) and it seemed to disappear after that.  It was the best we’ve found.  It rivals that of Jamie’s find, so Papa and Tata; you can decide which is best. 

I lost count of the number of military checkpoints we passed through; sometimes it is better to profess "no English" because when they find out you speak (albeit limited) Spanish, they are off to the races, chatting and chatting.  I figure the cultural exchange is both ways though, and we must present quite an interesting opportunity for them.  Twice, Ellen has been sleeping and they’ve been somewhat respectful of her.  Mostly they are interested in how we’re financing our trip, where we’re going, where we’ve been and why.

Today we traversed the spine of Baja.  Living in San Felipe, you can see mountains in the distance, but they are grey and rocky, but today we climbed pass after pass and found the green desert.  We traveled some teeny tiney, unspeakably narrow mountain roads, some without a line down the middle (almost as though the road builders acknowledged the narrowness by omitting the dividing line).  We were surrounded alternately by green spiny cactus and prairie weeds.  Yellow daisies and purple sage blanketed the roadway.  I kicked myself repeatedly for leaving the camera in the trailer.  Some of the passes reminded me of Peruvian mountain passes; the mountains were gigantic; the hills were green and the mist ebbed and flowed.

We made it into Ensenada and after some run-arounds getting on the right highway, we headed up MX1 to MX3.  I can’t describe the absolute beauty of MX3 across the Baja; it is simply indescribable.  Heading up MX3 towards Tecate, we found the Rancho Sordo Mudo and the most beautiful dump station we’ll ever find.  The picture doesn’t do it justice (I should have gotten on top of the rig), but the view from the dump (where you dump your sewer (black and grey) tanks) was that of beautiful hills and an immediate vineyard.  Jamie’s ass ain’t too bad either. 

Rancho Sordo Mudo (Deaf Mute Ranch) was inter-planted with orange trees and the kids delighted in picking ripe (and unripe) oranges.  All were put to good use, though, as I expected we’d have to dump our chicken at the US border (even though it was purchased at Trader Joe’s in the US).  I roasted the chicken in orange juice and garlic.  YUMMMM!!!  I’ve read that if the chicken is cooked, it is less likely to be taken (unless the Customs officer has a hankering for chicken, I guess…).  We left Ensenada with the sun low on the horizon and I was pushing the limits of safety trying to make camp before dark. 

Herstory

(Chrissy; you might want to snooze through this one; assuming you don’t do that through all of them.  Oh, and we got the sesame oil.  Thanks SO much (ppphhhhbbbtttt))

Someone asked me "why did you decide to go traveling? Do y’all have a goal in mind? Or are you traveling until you get where you’re going? Do you know that destination or will you know it once you get there? Are you doing odd jobs along the way or did you save for years?"

I wish I could answer, quite loftily, "oh yes!  it has been a dream of ours for YEARS and we scrimped and saved and when we finally decided we’d saved enough and planned enough and knew exactly what we were doing, we left!".  I’ve never been one to plan, however.  We have four children and we planned one of them.  Number three. 

When Sissy (#3) was about a year old, I decided I didn’t want to go back to work at all.  I’d worked (part time) through the boys childhoods and loathed leaving them at home (even though they were home with Dad or Grandma the days I worked).  *I* wanted to be at home with them.  After I’d had my first child (1994) I finally figured out what I wanted to be when I grew up; a mom.  A single woman, I’d traveled extensively (Europe in the early 80’s, Alaska, BC and the Yukon twice, in the mid 80’s and early 90’s, and southern South America in the late 80’s) and had worked full time since 1979.  I was ready to "retire" and be a mom.  Finances, so we thought, didn’t allow, so I reluctantly returned to work, 6 months after both boys.  After Sissy, our last (so we thought), we decided to move to Eugene, Oregon and live a simpler life where I could stay at home. 

Ellen came along and it was an incredibly difficult pregnancy (though the easiest birth).  We put our plans for Eugene on hold.  The real estate market continued to boom and by 2004 our house had appreciated into twice the original value.  We were concerned that it was going to bottom out and that the upcoming election might hasten that, so after consulting with our real estate agent and each other, we suddenly decided to sell.  I believe that was mid-August.  We painted, painted and painted, put a new roof on the garage, refinished the floors, re-carpeted; we spent each and every day in a flurry of activity.  The children watched TV.  Sometimes they "helped".  They especially LOVED painting.  After the house was put on the market, we decided what we wanted to do.  Our first choice was to purchase a fixer-upper in Eugene, Oregon or Nelson BC (Canada) and spend a year fixing it up; using sweat equity and house profit.

Somehow, I managed to convince Jamie that we could also travel.  We researched and decided on a travel trailer and van, purchased them and decided that we’d travel around looking for the "perfect" (ha!) place to live.  Now that I have him in Mexico, I’m hoping he might decide that this might be perfection.  :)  Our original plan was to travel in Mexico for three months just as vacation.  Right now, he’s agreed that we *need* to see the ruins in the Yucatan, and we’ll probably spend a couple weeks in Bahia de la Concepcion or Bahia de los Angeles, so I don’t see us leaving Mexico proper until May.  We’re leaving San Felipe tomorrow (after three weeks) and heading up to San Diego to do errands, then down to the bottom of Baja; over to the mainland via ferry (where we’ll have to start all over again in frugality; the ferry will put us back a good $1000) and over to the Guatemala border area. 

In our plans for travel I had budgeted $100/day, but traveling in the US put us WAY over that amount.  I’m really happy traveling in Mexico, where we average $30/day.

I honestly don’t know how I converted him to living one day at a time and going where our desires lead us, but he is now loathe to return to the working world and we have a healthy bank account, and the living is incredibly easy down here, so who knows.  The kids are thriving, we’re happy, secure and hopeful for the future.  I don’t think I could have picked a better partner; he is so open to change and challenge.  Aw, I’m getting mushy. 

Pictures are from Jamie’s daily bike ride.

Drunks drunks and more drunks

It has been an odd morning.  Ellen woke, as usual, at 7:00.  Ever since giving up a nap (actually, yesterday she had one…) she goes to bed late (for not having a nap) and gets up UBER early.  She used to sleep til 8:30 or 9 but now gets up at 6:30 to 7.  I don’t understand it.  Anyway…she got up at 7; I nursed her for 30 minutes hoping that she might drop back into slumberland, but alas, she has, seemingly overnight, morphed into an early bird.  I usually do the dishes at night, but last night my intestines were in agony and I actually considered suicide, so a full sink awaited me in the morning.  About 1/2 way through dishes, Jamie folded up his bed and I had room to walk around.  We stayed inside the trailer (except for Jesse’s brief foray out to purchase empanadas from the vendedora) until 10:42 when Ellen escaped and headed for the beach.  We normally have breakfast on the beach (or at the minimum, coffee) and spend the morning out and about; come back for lunch and then out again. 

I wondered why we don’t feel so incredibly cramped in the trailer.  We’ve spent the last 10 years in a 1500sq-ft house and while there are those who would consider it a "small" house, it never felt small to us.  Everyone always had a private space they could call their own should need be.  We moved from that to my sister’s guesthouse (500sq-ft) when we were selling our house and this trailer can’t be more than 400sq-ft.  It is a 30ft long trailer and 11ft wide.  We do have a slide in the kitchen/living/dining room area, so it looks like we can add 60sq-ft (at most).  I would think that most people in the US would consider 400sq-ft to be a small space for a family of 6, but after 2 months of living in it, I’m not cramped.  Either we adapt especially well or do well in small spaces.  We do spend the majority of each day (before dark) outside, and the kids get LOTS of exercise (which limits the expression of pent up energy to a bare minimum) so I’m sure that helps.

We have an incredibly comfortable home.  A brand new (and first) microwave.  Jamie has wanted one for years, but I vetoed it.  It is incredibly handy for heating stuff up - no need to wash a pan (we have two pots; the big one and the little one) and no need to dirty an additional dish/pan.  We have a gigantic and enormous TV that I’d really like to trade  for a smaller and more lightweight one, but I couldn’t justify the expense of buying ANOTHER TV.  It sits there unused a good 90% of the time.  We used the bathtub last night for the first time.  The girls have ALWAYS enjoyed a good bath and we haven’t had once since Aunty Chris’s house (Christmas).  We cleaned out the laundry hamper (bathtub) and filled it up with warm, soapy water.  They had a blast. 

We are really getting sick of this trailer camp and but for Tata and Papa would not be here now.  The children are loathe to leave them and the living is easy here until nightfall.  The snowbirds fill up their mugs, top off their glasses and light a fire (or sit inside one of the gigantic Class A’s surrounding us).  They get progressively louder and drunker and more obnoxious.  They stay up until the wee hours, inciting dogs to bark and fight, screaming, laughing and partying.  It is quiet where Mom and Dad are, even though they are within stone’s throw; they are up against the beach and have dual pane windows.    The oddest thing about these drunk snowbirds is their uncanny ability to party like it’s 1994 and still get up at dawn.  Jamie and I were comparing them to "highschoolers" but stopped, not wanting to give highschoolers a bad name. 

It might not be Mulege calling us so much as the drunkards driving us out.  Last night they were bragging about "flashing" people on the Malecon (main drive).  Ugh.  These folks are in their 50’s and 60’s.  Double ugh.

The adventures of Becky:

Yesterday we were coming back from town after having purchased some recuerdos for our friends.  Naturally this means purchasing crap for the kids too.  Ellen and Sissy decided on tiny little tequila bottles (fridge magnets).  On the way back, Jamie asked Ellen, "what would happen if Becky drank one of those bottles?" to which she replied, quite seriously, "she’d be one drunk little baby!".
And so continue the adventures of Becky and Catie… 

We somehow managed to curtail the drunks last night; no parties anywhere in the camp.  They were pissed about it this morning; like I MADE them stop partying… 

Only Mulegé can save us

In an attempt to satiate my sister, i am dumping the senseless drivel that occupies my mind.  I can only imagine that after a day or two of this nonsense, she will implore, "Sweet Mother of God" (because she, if nothing else, is a truly pious person) "STOP the INSANITY!" 
The full moon is next week; that means very high and very low tides.  That means shrimp.  That means we may not leave.  Doesn’t help that the gawldurned (that’s for you Drew) package STILL hasn’t arrived.  Two weeks ago it was supposed to take 2-3 days.  That’s Mexico for you.  Better not be in a hurry, cause Mexico will teach you that it simply doesn’t pay.  The worst is, we’re not even using Mexican post - it is being sent to a US PO box, but the Aduana gets to examine packages as it is brought (by a private company) over the border.  Eeesh.  I’ll bet they’re really enjoying Jamie’s fleece.  At some point we’re going to have to give it up and consider it a donation to the needy Aduana in Mexicali.  Jamie and I are drooling over the campsites in Mulegé.  We can’t WAIT to get down there….

Making Cake

Anyone who thinks you don’t get math from unschooling never traveled in Mexico with inquisitive boys.  Pike came to me and said, "10 pesos is not quite a dollar, right?". "Yes, I replied.  "90 cents?" he questioned.  "yes" I said.  "so, he wondered, how much is 150 pesos?".  "well," i replied, "100 pesos is how much?"
(P) "90 cents"
(me) "and 50 pesos is how much?"
(P) "half 90".
(me) "how much is 1/2 90?"
(P) "ummmm…"
(me) "well, how much is half 9?"
(P) "4?"
(me) "well, how much is half 8?"
(P) "4".
(me) "and how much is 1/2 10?"
(P) "5."
(me) "right. so you know that half 9 is more than 4 and less than 5."
(P) "oh, 4 and a half".
(me) "right. so 90 is ten 9’s and since 4 and a half is 4.5, then 10 times 4.5 would be…(silence)…45."
We then went on to discuss decimal points and determined that 150 pesos was roughly 135 cents.  I’ve considered doing stuff like this on paper with them, but have tried and they prefer to envision it in their heads.  I think I prefer this too, as I’d rather they figure stuff out in their heads instead of taking my scribblings as the "way" they should figure things out.  They do, however, ocassionally ask me to give them "homework" and I give them a paper full of mathematical problems that they happily devour and ask for more.  Pike isn’t interested in "carrying" yet, but prefers fractions.  Go figure.   
When the boys were younger, I always worried that they’d never "do" math.  I was advised that money would take care of that.  I was amazed to find that this advice was dead on.  Most everything they know about math has come from money. 

On the puppy front, Mom has taken over for Pike, campaigning to get him a puppy.  To slow her campaign, I’ve siced the girls on her; making cake.  Ellen just LOVES to break eggs.  She takes the whole egg and crushes it in her palm.  Then I get to pick the shells out.  Sometimes she does it over a bowl and sometimes she gets so giddy with egg cracking excitement that she does it as soon as she gets the egg in her hot little hand.  Good luck, Tata. 

One-Eyed Pirates

If Dad’s wireless were working, I’d be posting this live; sitting on the beach, watching the boys row their boat out.  It is very calm today; it actually sprinkled a bit this morning.  it is overcast, but on the Sea of Cortes (doesn’t that sound SO romantish and impressive?  "oh yes, dahling, we’re lying about on the Sea of Cortes") the sky goes forever and the sun streams through the spaces between the clouds and there are pink clouds (since the sun came up a while ago) and yellow and white and dark blue and aquamarine and deep blue and honestly, it is no mystery why we are still here, going on three weeks).  Oh golly.  Did I digress AGAIN?

Oh goodness!  I’ve managed to connect to Dad’s wireless, so I AM sitting on the beach; the girls playing in the sand at my feet; the boys rowing about the cove; surf lazily crashing on the shore; sky spottily overcast; can it get any better?  The boys are rowing about our cove (which really is a bay, not a cove) and we’ve got them on the 2-way radio.  Pikey is singing ""Don't Shake Hands with a One-Eyed Pirate" (by Gunnar Madsen) in the background of the radio.  Guess you had to be there…

A few days ago, a couple here at the campground picked up a tiny little puppy from the local Animal Rescue Center.  The center neuters and spays all the dogs they can find to try to slow the local dog overpopulation.  Pikey fell deeply and totally in love with the puppy.  All the kids loved the puppy, but Pikey fell hard.  He has been in a relentless complain to adopt a puppy just like it.  So far, we’re holding strong, but after seeing the kids playing with the puppy it was difficult to hold firm.  The puppy and its owners left today and Pike was heartbroken.  He found a little cloth that the puppy had used as a biting toy and he saved it, labeled it "Peso" (puppy’s name) and it is his only remembrance of the puppy (sniff sniff).

Just some photos of tonight’s sunset.  The girls were playing a weird "push you down and laugh your ass off" game so yes, these are also pictures of the girls pushing each other down onto the sand and laugh laugh laugh.  Pikey now has a compadre in his endeavor to obtain a puppy.  Mom, after reading the post below, has joined his complaint.  Updates to come…

boys and boats

Didja know that you can get sunburnt in mid January whilst at sea level?  I felt prickly but honestly didn’t think I could really get burnt.  It’s the middle of winter; the sun is low in the sky even at midday (but then again, low in the sky in the SF Bay area does not necessarily equate equally low in the sky some 1200 miles closer to the equator…).  Little things YOU probably knew but of which I was blissfully unaware.  Until now.  Now I need to practice vigilance with hats and sunscreen (both the kids and us) just like summer.  Some people can complain about anything… 

For the past year, Jesse has been lusting after a boat.  We frequented thrift shops looking for something inflatable that would work, but simply never found what we wanted at the price we wanted.  Here in San Felipe, from summer stock, he found his boat.  He and Pike spent a good part of the early afternoon riding the waves and rowing with and against the current.  No, they aren’t wearing life jackets and yes, I am a very bad mama.  Just one of those parental decisions we make; sometimes to regret.  Jesse is a very strong oarsman; I’d never have predicted it from his slight frame.  I think it is a matter of strength and strategy. 

Pike sits at the bow and watches the water; Jesse rows and commands the boat and when the reach the edge of the cove (or we’ve asked him to come back in (I’m SO loving the 2-way radios I got them for Xmas at the 2nd hand toy shop)) Jesse tows the boat back to the top of the cove and gives the girls a ride.

So…it is 2pm, we don’t give a damn about the pamn dackage anymore or going to Ensenada; we’re baking in the sun, playing in the tiny surf, completely mesmerized by watching the kids play and gathering shells. 

boys and boats

Didja know that you can get sunburnt in mid January whilst at sea level?  I felt prickly but honestly didn’t think I could really get burnt.  It’s the middle of winter; the sun is low in the sky even at midday (but then again, low in the sky in the SF Bay area does not necessarily equate equally low in the sky some 1200 miles closer to the equator…).  Little things YOU probably knew but of which I was blissfully unaware.  Until now.  Now I need to practice vigilance with hats and sunscreen (both the kids and us) just like summer.  Some people can complain about anything… 

For the past year, Jesse has been lusting after a boat.  We frequented thrift shops looking for something inflatable that would work, but simply never found what we wanted at the price we wanted.  Here in San Felipe, from summer stock, he found his boat.  He and Pike spent a good part of the early afternoon riding the waves and rowing with and against the current.  No, they aren’t wearing life jackets and yes, I am a very bad mama.  Just one of those parental decisions we make; sometimes to regret.  Jesse is a very strong oarsman; I’d never have predicted it from his slight frame.  I think it is a matter of strength and strategy. 

Pike sits at the bow and watches the water; Jesse rows and commands the boat and when the reach the edge of the cove (or we’ve asked him to come back in (I’m SO loving the 2-way radios I got them for Xmas at the 2nd hand toy shop)) Jesse tows the boat back to the top of the cove and gives the girls a ride.

So…it is 2pm, we don’t give a damn about the pamn dackage anymore or going to Ensenada; we’re baking in the sun, playing in the tiny surf, completely mesmerized by watching the kids play and gathering shells. 

Caliente baby!

Yesterday was our second or third day of heat.  Temperatures in the high 70’s and warm wind.  Something has been up with the kids; everyone is getting on each other’s last nerve.  Ellen has stopped napping and instead of going to bed one or two hours earlier (which is what all little children do when they stop taking naps - they crash hard an hour or two EARLIER than they used to) she has taken to going to bed at the same time and getting UP earlier.  Something is fuzzy in that little haid of hers.  As you might imagine, getting LESS sleep after giving up a nap is not working well for her little brain and the days are getting longer and less enjoyable.  So, yesterday we decided to zone her in the car, when, at 10am, she was already cranky as they come.  Why doesn’t she simply sleep on our journey to Ensenada today, you might ask?  That would be a very good question. 

We are waiting for Jamie’s fleece and Sissy’s helmet which were left at my sister’s (who graciously sent them to us).  I wonder if there is a Mexican aduana (customs) riding a bike in Jamie’s fleece and Sissy’s helmet…  So, off we headed to Puerticitos (110+km) (which, honestly, I never imagined we’d make - it is a baaaadddd dirt road) and getting some travel itchies out.  We made 67km in only 2 hours and since dark was coming in two more, decided to turn about and head home.  It was nice to get out.  I don’t know if you can see the signage on the sign; it states a speed limit of 25kph.  I couldn’t imagine WHY you’d need this notice; it is difficult to make it up to 25kph on this part of road.  It is REALLY bad.    Coming back into the sunset and golden sunlight, I kept hoping for a photo of the cactus against the shadows in the hills with the deep blue sea behind them.  I settled for 4 cranky kids and a cactus still in light.  Jesse and Pike’s highlight of the trip was throwing glass bottles (found roadside - remember the desert is your private dump!) and shattering them after I cajoled everyone into a picture.

Today we hung out on the beach, trying to catch a breeze to cool us down.  I really should title all my posts "yet another reason to hate me".  Complaining about the heat.  Sheesh!  You’ll never guess why we’re still not enroute to Ensenada.  The aduana must REALLY be liking Jamie’s fleece… 

carnivores

We had guests for dinner tonight AND we’ve officially joined the ranks of "trailer trash" (for the umpteenth time, I would guess).  Ellen is walking around in a t-shirt (bare-assed) clutching an orange "Fanta" (do they come in any flavor other than orange?).  It would only be better if we’d put a nipple on the top of the Fanta bottle…  We headed into town to buy some meat.  Sounds easy enough.  Half way to getting lost, Ellen broke down for the 3rd time (each time we go for a walk, at numerous points during the "walk", Ellen will break down; assert she can’t walk because her cheek/nose/elbow/etc. is hurt and melt into a sobbing mess in the middle of the street.  Strange how the meltdown must occur in the middle of the street.  Anyhew, soon after the third meltdown, she fell asleep in my arms.  The wind was BLOWING and it was about 1000 degrees Farenheit.  Thank goodness for the wind. 

We couldn’t find the asado place (sort of like a BBQ) and I sent Jamie back to the campground to get directions from mom and dad and the car.  Home again home again with grilled meat and we put to eating.  Our door was open with just the screen door closed and I noticed a pair of eyes staring at me from the other side of the screen door.  On my next pass by the door, those eyes had been joined by another pair.  By the time dinner was in full swing, we had 5 dogs, patiently sitting outside the door; no barking, no elbowing for room; simply sitting and waiting for their portion.  The kids didn’t disappoint.  The kids had so much fun feeding the doggies that it is entirely possible that the dogs ate more than the kids (even though they were only supposed to be giving them the "fat" parts).

The boys are dying to stay another week, but Jamie and I are getting antsy; I’d like more quiet and nature and feel a desire to see more of Baja than San Felipe.  I think Pike would be more than happy to spend the next month here.  I’m hoping to convice them to leave Tuesday, but we’ll see.  What is oh so very strange about this intense desire to root here in San Felipe is the fact that for the past few days the boys have spent the majority of each day sequestered in their bunkroom, playing audio tapes (THANKS Chrissy for Eragon; though I must hesitantly admit that I’m beginning to tire of hearing it for the 3246th time) and playing legos.  What, specifically, I wonder, are they loving in San Felipe that they loathe to leave?

Everyone seems to be sated; it only took 2 kilos of meat to do it.  (sheepish font)  Yes, the kids (minus Jesse, who seems to have the dreaded "Tata’s disease") and we ate TWO KILOS of meat.  We were supposed to bring some back for Tata and Papa, but I’m not sure that between the kids and the dogs, any will be left.

Papa and Tata took us out for dinner last night, helping us to bring our budget back into some semblance of order.  When we left the US, we were $1327 over budget; after two weeks here in San Felipe, we’ve cut that to only $594.  For that reason alone, I’m tempted to stay another week.    The kids are really going to miss Tata and Papa which is yet another reason I’m tempted to stay.  I keep trying to convince them that the beaches will be warmer and new adventures await just down the road.  We hope to leave here Tuesday or Wednesday and go up to San Diego for some errands then down to Ensenada; San Quintin; Mulege (and parts between San Quintin and Mulege) and eventually La Paz.  Or not.  We might only go as far as Santa Rosalia and take the ferry to the mainland. 

Pictures tonight are of sunset at the bridge.  You know.  The bridge on the other side of the lighthouse.  You know.  The lighthouse by the shrine to La Virgin or Lady of Guadalupe or someone.  You know.

Stuck. What, AGAIN?

Sometimes I really think we erred in getting the Ford and shouldda wouldda couldda kept the Westy.  Before we’d settled on the trailer/van combination, I put serious consideration (and argument) towards bringing both the Westy and the Van (VW, 1985).  I figured we’d have lots of room; could split he kids up between the two vans and we’d pretty much be able to go anywhere.  Boy, I am really regretting that I didn’t put more effort into that argument.  I can’t fault the AmeriCamp for a second; I love the roominess and ability to bring everything including the kitchen sink, but we are REALLY limited in our ability to move freely.  Yesterday I was barfing (Sissy made it a point (ad nauseum) to inform Tata that I had "her" (Tata’s) sickness) so Jamie decided to take the kids out of the trailer.  The kids always freak when I barf (maybe they think mommybarf=new baby?) and become more needy than humanly possible.    so, off he headed, into the vastness of sand, scrub and garbage (yes, the entire desert is treated as a gigantic trash bin) with the kids. 

When I’m at the point that I’m simply dizzy; not barfing, and decide to make clam chowder with the yummy clams (though I must admit that I really have NO stomach for clams - they really do not appeal to me at all, but dried mussels…in Puerto Montt (south of Santiago) in Chile (it is pretty much the last city before the endless archipelago and Coyaquie (I know I spelled that wrong) (and yes, I’m going for a record on tangents and parentheses) you go to the market and everywhere you look you can find a string (much like a string of garlic or chiles) of dried mussels and they are simply YUMMY and boy oh boy could I go for some RIGHT now).  Hmmm…I just might be lost in thought for a while here - go on without me; I’m back in Puerto Montt…

So.  Kiki (the campground owner) timidly knocks on the trailer door and says that there is a call for me at his house from someone; that Jamie is stuck in the desert.  I head over and find that Dusty McPeak (what a RICH name!) had found Jamie and the kids in the desert and Jamie asked him to call me.  Dunno WHAT I’m supposed to do.  I figure that the van has broken down cause if it were simply stuck, Jamie would have asked Mr. McPeak to help him out (since Mr. McPeak was obviously able to get out of wherever Jamie was).  So, just in case, I round up digging-out implements and towing-out implements and off we head; Dad in his 4WD ELEMENT (tada!!!), Jesse in his 02 Ford E250 SuperCab 4WD (with posi-traction, TADA!!!) and me.  I brought a shovel (and OF COURSE, the camera!  TADA!!).  We find Mr. McPeak at his campground and he leads us off into the desert to the rescue (here we come to save the daaaayyyy!!).  I speculate to Jesse (not my son; but a fellow campground resident) that either the van has had a mechanical breakdown or Jamie forgot he was in the Ford and thought he was in one of our (real) vans.  You know; the beloved VW’s that we left in Cali (as the Midwesterners call CALIFORNIA) (see, I can bring this back around to make a connection).

Jesse hooks a chain to his truck and the other to our van and without even so much as a wimper or increase in RPM’s or the slightest inclination that there was a 7500lb anchor at the end of the chain, the super truck pulls the van out of the 17ft hole it had fallen into.  Like butter.  Like there was nothing more than a tiny little red wagon at the end of the chain.  That truck was magnificent. 
Jamie, after digging for five hours, with cactus spines up to the bones in his fingers (so he reported) drove the van back to the campground and immediately began relieving his stress with wine (thanks SO MUCH Dad!).  So that is why he is sleeping it off (or maybe he has "Tata’s disease").

Anyway, today we’re cleaning up (after being in Jesse’s gorgeously clean truck, I am determined to clean up the van) and maybe later we’ll head for town and buy crap we don’t need.  It is overcast today and we’re freezing in shorts.  Someone feel sorry for us.  Please?

Yes, the pictures liberally sprinkled throughout this post have absolutely nothing to do with the post.  I have a picture of the stuck Ford, but need to get it off the camera and onto the net.  Manana.

Clammy Clammy Clammy

The kids tired of digging much sooner than Jamie and I but getting them into dry clothes and feeding them helped give us more time to dig.  With the kids clamoring to go, our stomachs groaning with hunger (Jamie and I didn’t have time for breakfast and the kids ate all the food I’d brought), Jamie and I agreed on "one more" and then headed back.  I was astonished to find, when we got in the car, that three hours had passed.  I guess we’ve got the clamming fever.  Tata and Papa graciously added their stash to ours and now we have more than I imagined we’d need.  Pic above is Papa doing "rake" technique.

Pics and more later; Jamie is sleeping off a (shhhhh…hangover) and I’m racing to post before Papa’s wireless crashes on me.

old fogies

Last night was a spectacle on very many fronts.  It was a warm night; the second which we’ve left our windows open and down comforters off and an extreme low tide.  According to Dad, it was -4ft (shouldn’t that be meters?) at 7:29pm.  The rumour mill, operating from a number of VERY drunk Canadians (British Columbians, to be specific ) was that 100 kilos of shrimp had been caught.  A shrimp frenzy took over; people were getting progressively drunker and pushing rye, red wine and beer on those of us content with our level of alcohol already taken in, and people milled about at the boat ramp ready to pounce with fistfulls of $20’s on the poor shrimpermen as they arrived.  We watched pangas run to and from the shrimp boats and marina and tried to guess what panga was going where and what truck would be pulling which panga up on the shore.  Tide was WAY out, it was dark, trucks were way out on the beach, music blared from one of the drunk BC’ers trailer and everyone dreamed of the shrimp to come.  It was a shock to me; I’ve always been worried when we pull into a campsite that people we shrink away in horror at the noise and commotion which must accompany a family with small children, but these "old fogies" were dedicated to partying the night away and from my observations, they partied pretty hearty.

We heard this morning that they took 380 kilos to the Coop - this doesn’t include the "keys" sold to the very drunk, very raucous, very desperate to purchase Canadians and Americans lining the ramp throwing fistfulls of $20 at the shrimpermen when they came in at 10:30pm.  Mike figures they brought in 400 kilos of shrimp.  It was quite a night.

Morning dawned warm and bright (hot and bright for some) and the tide was WAY out again.  We took the kids out and we walked the beach and combed for "roadkill" - we found 2 crabs and one large clam.  It is lunchtime and Ellen is still not ready to cook her clam.  Soon after the tide started coming back in a fog came in with it and we’ve been socked in all day.  Tide is high now and fog has finally receded.  The day seems upside down; tide was out in the morning and it is way in this afternoon.  We have two shrimp boats in the bay and they are so fascinating with their nets spread wide.  They look like something you’d find in the South Seas.  As I type this, my back is baked by the sun, waves are crashing no more than 10ft away, my feet are covered in sweet sand and the kids are frolicking on the beach.  If that isn’t enough to hate me, I’m not sure what is.